Not many deviations from my System have occurred until yesterday, when I let myself be ‘suaded to surf an advanced break. We wanted to surf a point break named Hermosa, known for its spitting tubes, and I thanked lil Baby as soon as I saw that it wasn’t working. But that meant we voyaged on…to Suck Rock. No joke- This placed tried to take my toe nails off as soon as I stepped afoot. (Though it didn’t look THAT core from the shore.) It was a shallow water beach break, to the left of a point, so a lot of water was being pushed around, acting as a hydraulic and the surf broke in about two feet, if that.

I paddled out with the fellas…low tide, heat of the day, and fucking A, I was stoked?! I went for many o’trickster waves, and thinking too much, realized this shit was the board breaking, neck-snapping spot I’d heard about. Then one wave into my 30 minutes, I made it with some sloppy success, and rode far enough inside that I now had to deal with getting back out. That was the turning point, as I'd caught the second of the set, (which also happened to be the deepest we’d seen)- the rest tore me up! As soon as I tried to duck dive the next 10ft wave that broke in about two feet of water, I was thrashed.

BTW my arms automatically cover my face whenever I wipe out, and when this happened one quickly got yanked behind my back. Whence the board proceeded to bang and my tumble-esque self went for a washing. When I came up looking like Cousin It, I knew I needed to regain composure before trying again, and went for terra firma. I sat on the beach for 15 minutes before I knew what was going on. My eyes saw double, my life support adrenals pumped, and I had a foolish grin ear to ear. My arm was instantly swollen and bruised, just as my thigh and hip region. I really felt the arm though, and giggled at the sense of aliveness that pumped through me, semi concerned, I sat. Then two of the four guys came in, one local with an “almost dislocated shoulder” and the other with astonishment to the conditions of “What the fuck?”.
This Suck Rock place pulled the pee outta me, pooled blood to skin’s surface and brought the best of hormones to the forefront of my rattled brain. I feel like I have a slight concussion, and this isn’t the first time...Focking shallow breaks! Lots to learn, lots to live for!

Later that day...
Since that was my impromptu midday session, I took it easy for sunset and opted for my fins over the board and floundered my thighs silly (which didn’t take long)! That’s one thing about surfing, the cardiovascular system practices a totally different rhythm than say climbing, biking, or running. It pretty much doesn’t feel cardio until your pinned below, free-flowing with momentum and waiting patiently to resurface. Yeah, so I swam, my legs burned and I accepted the “Jill a la mer" rules.

Twas a delightful Tuesday! Swell is up and I am still a bit dazed and confused, but went for another swim this morning- Letting my brain and arm take a rest, we'll all fun-serious circus the rest of the day away, and then BBQ pescado! Besos!